Motorcycle Touring: Planning, Packing & Traveling>
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You have your destination and route planned out. You have the date when you get to leave, all the arrangment have been made. You have the money set aside for your trip. You just figured out how to use your new GPS and you ordered new bags to pack your stuff in, but wait, what about your motorcycle. Will it be able to travel 4,000 miles on those tires? Before you leave on that motorcycle tour of a lifetime, make sure your bike is in tip-top shape to get you there. It is money well spent to send your bike to the garage for an inspection before you hit the road. Motorcycles are machines. Things can go wrong with machines and often do. You don't want to be broke down in the middle of nowhere, with electrical problems, because you didn't take the time to check your battery before you left on your trip. If you cannot afford the professional check of your bike, then you need to at least check  all the fluid levels and condition including oil, brake fluid and engine coolant (on liquid cooled machines) . Check the tires for wear and proper tire pressure. Check brake, clutch and throttle cables, adjust and lubricate if necessary. Check battery and all lights. Check for loose or missing items. Below is a check list from the Motorcycle Safety Foundation of things that should be inspected. A day spent on preparation can prevent days of travel lost to a broken down motorcycle.

 SM Inspection Checklist

























































































































































































































































































T-CLOCS ITEM


WHAT TO CHECK


WHAT TO LOOK FOR


CHECK-OFF


T-TIRES & WHEELS


Tires


Condition


Tread depth, wear, weathering, evenly seated, bulges, embedded objects.


Front


Rear


Air Pressure


Check when cold, adjust to load.


Front


Rear


Wheels


Spokes


Bent, broken, missing, tension, check at top of wheel: "ring" = OK — "thud" = loose spoke


Front


Rear


Cast


Cracks, dents.


Front


Rear


Rims


Out of round/true = 5mm. Spin wheel, index against stationary pointer.


Front


Rear


Bearings


Grab top and bottom of tire and flex: No freeplay (click) between hub and axle, no growl when spinning.


Front


Rear


Seals


Cracked, cut or torn, excessive grease on outside, reddish-brown around outside.


Front


Rear


Brakes


Function


Each brake alone keeps bike from rolling.


Front


Rear


C-CONTROLS


Levers and Pedal


Condition


Broken, bent, cracked, mounts tight, ball ends on handlebar levers, proper adjustment.


Pivots


Lubricated.


Cables


Condition


Fraying, kinks, lubrication: ends and interior.


Routing


No interference or pulling at steering head, suspension, no sharp angles, wire supports in place.


Hoses


Condition


Cuts, cracks, leaks, bulges, chafing, deterioration.


Routing


No interference or pulling at steering head, suspension, no sharp angles, hose supports in place.


Throttle


Operation


Moves freely, snaps closed, no revving when handlebars are turned.


L-LIGHTS


Battery


Condition


Terminals; clean and tight, electrolyte level, held down securely.


Vent Tube


Not kinked, routed properly, not plugged.


Headlamp


Condition


Cracks, reflector, mounting and adjustment system.


Aim


Height and right/left.


Operation


Hi beam/low beam operation.


Tail lamp/brake lamp


Condition


Cracks, clean and tight.


Operation


Activates upon front brake/rear brake application.


Turn signals


Operation


Flashes correctly.


Front left


Front right


Rear left


Rear right


Mirrors


Condition


Cracks, clean, tight mounts and swivel joints.


Aim


Adjust when seated on bike.


Lenses & Reflectors


Condition


Cracked, broken, securely mounted, excessive condensation.


Wiring


Condition


Fraying, chafing, insulation.


Routing


Pinched, no interference or pulling at steering head or suspension, wire looms and ties in place, connectors tight, clean.


O-OIL


Levels


Engine Oil


Check warm on center stand on level ground, dipstick, sight glass.


Hypoid Gear Oil, Shaft Drive


Transmission, rear drive, shaft.


Hydraulic Fluid


Brakes, clutch, reservoir or sight glass.


Coolant


Reservoir and/or coolant recovery tank — check only when cool.


Fuel


Tank or gauge.


Leaks


Engine Oil


Gaskets, housings, seals.


Hypoid Gear Oil, Shaft Drive


Gaskets, seals, breathers.


Hydraulic Fluid


Hoses, master cylinders, calipers.


Coolant


Radiator, hoses, tanks, fittings, pipes.


Fuel


Lines, fuel valve, carbs.


C-CHASSIS


Frame


Condition


Cracks at gussets, accessory mounts, look for paint lifting.


Steering-Head Bearings


No detent or tight spots through full travel, raise front wheel, check for play by pulling/pushing forks.


Swingarm Bushings/Bearings


Raise rear wheel, check for play by pushing/pulling swingarm.


Suspension


Front Forks


Smooth travel, equal air pressure/damping, anti-dive settings.


Left


Right


Rear Shock(s)


Smooth travel, equal pre-load/air pressure/damping settings, linkage moves freely and is lubricated.


Left


Right


Chain or Belt


Tension


Check at tightest point.


Lubrication


Side plates when hot. Note: do not lubricate belts.


Sprockets


Teeth not hooked, securely mounted


Fasteners


Threaded


Tight, missing bolts, nuts.


Clips


Broken, missing.


Cotter Pins


Broken, missing.


S-STANDS


Center stand


Condition


Cracks, bent.


Retention


Springs in place, tension to hold position.


Side stand


Condition


Cracks, bent (safety cut-out switch or pad equipped).


Retention


Springs in place, tension to hold position.

 


Leah Lind